I made jeans!!!
And, it’s almost 70 degrees here in Denver on the day after Thanksgiving. I ❤ you, Denver.
According to the pattern, my hips fall into a size 42 and my waist into a size 44. So, I ordered that size pattern and graded between the two sizes. I’m a bit concerned that I actually need one more size down (size 40), but the patterns only come two to a file. The pattern calls for a 1cm or 2/5″ seam allowance. I don’t know anyone who uses 5ths of an inch for anything. So, I guessed that 2/5″ is pretty darn close to 3/8″ and used that for my seam allowances. Based on the pictures, I thought this was going to be a pretty fitted, skinny jean type fit. Maybe I did something wrong? Because these are super loose and relaxed fit in my book. Everything is a bit baggy. Don’t get me wrong, I still love them and have worn them every day! I just was not expecting the fit to be as loose as it is.
The back pockets are in two pieces which gives a nice detail. I top stitched EVERYTHING obsessively. I think that and pressing as you go make all the difference in the world when it comes to the final garment looking professional.
A lot of people have complained about the pattern pieces being nested and having to trace off of the printed pattern. I just printed several copies so that I could just cut out what I needed. I’m apparently faster at printing and taping than I am at tracing. I did try to trace and got irritated and upset. So I just printed another copy so I could stop being upset. 🙂
I used some of my favorite space ship fabric to line the pockets with. It makes me immensely happy when I see it.
The fly turned out AWESOME. And the pockets. Hi, that’s my crotch. But, check it! A perfect jeans fly! I used this awesome tutorial that I found on Meg’s blog meggiepeg. It worked like a charm. She recommended that you not cut one side of the fly-flap-thing shorter than the other like the pattern calls for and then follow the instructions in the tutorial. So, I tried it and it worked beautifully!
And more top stitching down the front leg seam. I think this detail is one of my favorite. Apparently I’m really digging the seam down the front of the legs look because I’ve been drooling over the Papercut ooh la leggings. I’m seriously buying some knit wool and making those as soon as I get my hands on the pattern.
I did have a few OMG WTF moments when I was putting on the waistband. I had SOOOOO MUCH ease in the pants that I was trying to spread out into the waistband. I realized later that I had forgotten to put on the fly shield and that helped. Then, I realized I was opening up my zipper fly into the waistband in a weird way that made things not line up. Guys, this is my first pair of pants in about 12 years. So, all things considered, I think they turned out awesome. And wearable! And, I made them in about 2 days. What.
I’m ordering some more stretch denim soon so that I can make a pair that is more fitted. I think this next time I’m going to use 5/8″ seam allowances and probably flat fell some of the seams. I ❤ flat felling seams. Why, I don’t know. It’s got something to do with my dislike of raw edges and serged edges. And, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this solves some of my fit woes/wants. Otherwise, I might need to see about getting a size smaller pattern.
Once I get the fit the way I want it, then I’m planning on making several pairs of these. I want to make a black twill pair for work. Probably a pinstripe pair, as well. And, several in denim of different colors and weights. If I can get these fitting well, then this will be my idea of the perfect pants pattern ever. How’s that for a glowing endorsement?