Moss Making Month: Classic Denim Skirt, part 2

It’s DONE!

My first Moss skirt is complete!

The verdict? I LOVE IT!

I seriously went all out in the construction of this baby. I was going for that classic jeans-style. I flat-felled all the seams I possibly could. The front seam I did a fake flat-felled seam since a correctly constructed one would have made the zipper insertion much more difficult. I top stitched EVERYTHING. I used rivets on the pocket edges. I did French seams on the bottom edge of the pockets. And, I used gimp cord in my button hole (added strength and durability). Now, I’m totally not worried about throwing this skirt in the washing machine.

I used a stretch denim I’ve had in my stash for AGES and probably bought at Joann’s with a coupon once upon a time. I also used some left over Anna Maria Horner Pastry Line cotton voile for the pocket linings.

Look how pretty it turned out! One of my recent discoveries was my edge stitching foot. It made the flat-felled seams almost mindless. If you’ve never used the edge stitching foot, it’s the one with the rudder in the middle of the foot. You guide your fabric edge, or folded edge in the case of flat-felled seams, down the rudder and it ensures that your stitching is always the same distance from that edge. It also made top stitching the waist band a cinch. Brilliant! Try it some time! Also: thicker top-stitching thread is TOTALLY worth it on denim. Regular sewing thread just doesn’t have enough visual weight, in my opinion.

If you look closely at the center front seam above and the side seam, you can see the difference in the two. The side seam is a true flat-felled seam, the center front is the fake one. From the outside they look almost identical, the inside is where the difference shows. I love seam finishes and creating the perfect finish on a garment. I’m still annoyed that I don’t really know how to make a fly front without some semi-raw edges. I used my Bernina’s faux-overlock stitch to finish the edges of the fly facing and the fly shield. I went over the raw edges about 3 times each. Those threads don’t stand a chance of coming loose. At one point, when inserting my fly, I did completely stitch through the fly shield. That would have been awkward, there would have been no way to open it. Oops.

The one thing I’m trying to figure out is what I did wrong with the pockets. Do you see how the bottom edge wants to curl upwards? The second one I’m working on looks like it’s going to have the same issue. It makes the front of the skirt a bit bulky, since it won’t lay flat. I’m curious if I cut out the wrong size of one piece? I can’t figure it out. I don’t want the bulk like that on my next one. The denim disguises it, and with your hands in the pockets, no one can tell.

I also recently finished a Scout Tee from Grainline Studio in a super light and flow-y chambray. I’ve been wearing one or the other of these two garments just about every day since I completed them. This might be my summer uniform this year. This shirt is so comfortable, I think I need about 100 more garments made from chambray.

My sandals are also one of my favorite pairs of shoes. Piper sandals, they have been handmade in Texas since 1971 by the same family. And, they offer repairs, new straps put on for free, and re-soling (not for free) for as long as they are in business. They are amazingly comfortable, too.

I also realized that when I got home and took off my complete Grainline outfit, I then put on my (as of yet unblogged) Polka Dot Chambray Lakeside Pajamas. ALL GRAINLINE ALL DAY.

It’s pretty much a Grainline love fest around here EVERY.SINGLE.DAY. Jen’s patterns are just really great wardrobe basics. I love all of them.

How’s Moss Making Month going for you? Have you made any Moss skirts yet? Don’t forget to tag us on Instagram with #grainlinestudio and #mossmakingmonth !

One last shot, from the back:

Thanks for taking pictures of me, Allie!!

Olive Knit Scout Tee

 

Welcome to my chicken coop…I mean…I made another shirt!

pattern: scout tee ◊ grainline studio

fabric: random olive green knit from my stash that I probably bought 3 years ago

 

I made this shirt in one loooooong evening. I think I decided at 8pm I wanted to make it. I found this olive green knit in my stash and dove in. And came out with a finished t-shirt at 1am. Oops. I got sucked in.

I made one size smaller than the pattern suggests based on my measurements. I got all kinds of excited about my double needle and top stitched everything but the side seams. Seriously, even the shoulder and arms and hems. I love top stitching, just period. It always makes me feel like my projects look finished.

I don’t usually wear t-shirts that are sort of oversized like this, but I’m going to need to start. I love this shirt! I do prefer it with my fitted jeans as opposed to my relaxed jeans.

Back into the fray today, Thanksgiving break is officially over. So, my sewing productivity is probably going to go down. But I have so many gifts to make!

Jamie Jeans – Part 1 (of many, many more)

I made jeans!!!

pattern: Jamie Jeans ◊ Named Clothing

fabric: dark stretch denim that’s been in my stash for YEARS ◊ Joann Fabrics

And, it’s almost 70 degrees here in Denver on the day after Thanksgiving. I ❤ you, Denver.

According to the pattern, my hips fall into a size 42 and my waist into a size 44. So, I ordered that size pattern and graded between the two sizes. I’m a bit concerned that I actually need one more size down (size 40), but the patterns only come two to a file. The pattern calls for a 1cm or 2/5″ seam allowance. I don’t know anyone who uses 5ths of an inch for anything. So, I guessed that 2/5″ is pretty darn close to 3/8″ and used that for my seam allowances. Based on the pictures, I thought this was going to be a pretty fitted, skinny jean type fit. Maybe I did something wrong? Because these are super loose and relaxed fit in my book. Everything is a bit baggy. Don’t get me wrong, I still love them and have worn them every day! I just was not expecting the fit to be as loose as it is.

The back pockets are in two pieces which gives a nice detail. I top stitched EVERYTHING obsessively. I think that and pressing as you go make all the difference in the world when it comes to the final garment looking professional.

A lot of people have complained about the pattern pieces being nested and having to trace off of the printed pattern. I just printed several copies so that I could just cut out what I needed. I’m apparently faster at printing and taping than I am at tracing. I did try to trace and got irritated and upset. So I just printed another copy so I could stop being upset. 🙂

I used some of my favorite space ship fabric to line the pockets with. It makes me immensely happy when I see it.

The fly turned out AWESOME. And the pockets. Hi, that’s my crotch. But, check it! A perfect jeans fly! I used this awesome tutorial that I found on Meg’s blog meggiepeg. It worked like a charm. She recommended that you not cut one side of the fly-flap-thing shorter than the other like the pattern calls for and then follow the instructions in the tutorial. So, I tried it and it worked beautifully!

And more top stitching down the front leg seam. I think this detail is one of my favorite. Apparently I’m really digging the seam down the front of the legs look because I’ve been drooling over the Papercut ooh la leggings. I’m seriously buying some knit wool and making those as soon as I get my hands on the pattern.

I did have a few OMG WTF moments when I was putting on the waistband. I had SOOOOO MUCH ease in the pants that I was trying to spread out into the waistband. I realized later that I had forgotten to put on the fly shield and that helped. Then, I realized I was opening up my zipper fly into the waistband in a weird way that made things not line up. Guys, this is my first pair of pants in about 12 years. So, all things considered, I think they turned out awesome. And wearable! And, I made them in about 2 days. What.

I’m ordering some more stretch denim soon so that I can make a pair that is more fitted. I think this next time I’m going to use 5/8″ seam allowances and probably flat fell some of the seams. I ❤ flat felling seams. Why, I don’t know. It’s got something to do with my dislike of raw edges and serged edges. And, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this solves some of my fit woes/wants. Otherwise, I might need to see about getting a size smaller pattern.

Once I get the fit the way I want it, then I’m planning on making several pairs of these. I want to make a black twill pair for work. Probably a pinstripe pair, as well. And, several in denim of different colors and weights. If I can get these fitting well, then this will be my idea of the perfect pants pattern ever. How’s that for a glowing endorsement?

Neon Floral Tiny Pocket Tank

top ◊ tiny pocket tank ◊ grainline studio
fabric ◊ thrifted vintage neon floral that I’ve been hoarding
scarf/shawl/sharf ◊ damson ◊ Ysolda
yarn ◊ Malabrigo sock yarn ◊ color 851 Turner

So, I’ve tried both the Tiny Pocket Tank by grainline and the Wiksten Tank.

I prefer the Tiny Pocket Tank, honestly. It is more fitted and less flowy and it just works with my body better. I’ll get pics of my Wiksten tank up soon and do a comparison.

I got this fabric at the ARC a while back. I’ve been obsessed with it ever since but wasn’t quite sure what to do with it. There was barely enough fabric for this tank. I used some pre-made bias tape for the arms and neckline. I also used French seams on the sides and, for some reason, decided to do flat-felled on the shoulders. I’m kind of shocked that the neon flowers look OK with my olive green sweater. But, the leaves are the same color as the sweater.

I moved the bust darts down an inch, but I think it might need to go back up 1/2 an inch or so. I have plans to make this in a black silk with large dots. I’m probably going to make a few so that I have lots of things to wear to work. It’s perfect under a cardigan.

Striped Hemlock Sweater

Well, I finished a few things this month!

pattern ◊ Hemlock Tee ◊ Grainline Studio
fabric ◊ polyester sweater knit ◊ Joann Fabrics
necklace ◊ valentine’s locket ◊ from Nate

Some details:

Finished measurements are Bust – 44.5″ ◊ Hip – 46.5″

My personal measurements are Bust – 37″ ◊ Hip – 41″

I’ve already gotten a lot of wear out of this, it’s super comfy and I loooove it. And it has gold sparkly stripes! Everyone at work couldn’t believe that I had made it. Fastest sweater ever.

I almost didn’t make this. I totally snapped a pic of this fabric a few weeks back and then I stumbled upon this sweater made by Stephanie ◊ Native Clutter ◊ makes the things and I decided to go for it.

I’m actually really glad I made this! I can see myself getting a LOT of use out of it. I’m already planning a gold/denim moss skirt to go with it for any holiday festivities I get roped into attending.

Ugh, it’s practically the same picture every time, and the lighting is bad. But, I just found my camera! And got the battery charged! And found my mini-tripod! So, things are looking up…

Now it’s time for me to go finish the part of my next project that I’ve been avoiding…